Budgeting Laos

Travel dates: September 20-25, 2012

	Thai Baht	Lao Kip
Train:
Bangkok-Laos-Bangkok (non-AC, 2nd class, upper deck)	976
Bus:
Vientiane to Luang Prabang (sleeping bus)		150,000
Luang Prabang to Vientiane (VIP sitting bus)		130,000
Vientiane to Nong Khai (International Bus)		15, 000
Tuktuk:
Thanaleng station to Vientiane (with 4 others)	60
Vientiane city to Northern bus terminal		50,000 (solo)
LP  bus terminal to my guesthouse		5,000 (after I walked for 20mins)
Guesthouse to LP Bus terminal v.v. (4x)		40, 000
Accommodation:
Xayana Guesthouse and X3 Capsule hotel		35,000 (overnight)
Entrance fees:
Temple hopping		50, 000
Kuangsi Falls		30,000 (I paid for my Lao friend)
Motorbike Parking		2000
Food/ drinks in Laos:
Night Market plate buffet		10000
Baguette, Iced coffee, fruit shake (my meal for 2days in LP)		40, 000
Lunch in Vientiane		28, 000 (splurge! trying to spend the remaining Lao money)
Meals in transit: mostly in Thai railway station	60
Miscellaneous:		60, 000
Total:	1096  (x1.4)	642, 000 (x.0044)
Total in Peso:	3,069.00	2,825.00

Laos Capital City: Vientiane for a Day!

They say there’s nothing much to do in Vientiane that an expert traveler would skip this historical capital city of Laos… But as a greenhorn backpacker, I’d like to see it for myself. Though I didn’t really plan staying in the city for a night, I had few sites I wanted to visit. But due to the unbearable high temperature, I only managed to see two, albeit important ones.

1.      Patuxai

Perhaps the most famous landmark of Vientiane is Patuxai, also known as the Victory Gate. The first time I saw this photo, I thought it was taken from somewhere in Europe. Well, Laos was once colonized by France, and this is them telling us that they were once here.

You can climb the top of Patuxai to see the panoramic view of the town. Entrance fee is 3,000 kip. I paid in baht (15baht) because I wasn’t able to change my money yet to Lao kip. (Baht is widely acceptable in Vientiane.)

Can’t exactly remember how many floors there is that consist the monument. But each floors houses different stall selling different kind of souvenir items.

Climbing the stairs to the top can be very exhausting. Especially if you haven’t eaten anything yet since you arrive the country. Haha. I had bottled water to sustain my energy and slowly, I succeeded it – panting, almost out of breath.

If only I can leave my backpack in one of the souvenir stores, so I can roam around freely. But I think I had to endure all of it. My only consolation perhaps was the promising 360 degree-view of Vientiane right in front of me.

Even though I wasn’t able to explore the town itself, I think the picture I’ve seen on top of Patuxai will do me, for now.

Patuxai can be compared to our Luneta Park, camera men are all over the place. Mind you, they’re not your ordinary camera men, because they have the most updated cameras in hand… (naghahabaan pati ang mga lente nila) and they have mobile developing area… you can see it at the back of their vans located in the parking area. 

2.    Pha That Luang

Not very far from Patuxai, is the Pha That Luang also known as the National Monument. I saw it from the map displayed in the Victory Gate. So I just asked for directions and walked relaxingly under the excruciating heat of the sun.  

It took me at least 15 minutes to get to the temple. There’s an entrance fee for foreign visitors, so I didn’t bother. I just took few shots outside and check other temples near it that doesn’t require you to pay for the entrance.

While trying to differentiate my baht and kip bills… I realized Lao money has this photo of National Monument. Made me think, did I really make the right choice skipping to view the temple? After all, it’s called the national monument. It must have played a bigger role to the history of Lao Republic. It was a cheap entrance fee though, I just didn’t want to spend another dime because I was trying to save my money. Haay.

I wanted to experience more of Vientiane but the heat was totally unbearable. Besides, I cannot spend much in the city because I still have Luang Prabang waiting for me.

Before heading to the terminal for my bus ride to Luang Prabang, I went to a bank near the National Monument to change my Thai baht to Laotian kip. (1 baht = 268 kip).

On the Road: Vientiane to Luang Prabang by Bus

After changing all my Thai money to Lao kip from the bank near  Pha That Luang, I hired a tuktuk to the Northern Bus terminal to catch an overnight bus to Luang Prabang. First tuk tuk charged me for 90,000Kip. Again, he showed me their standard rate card to prove it. But I cannot afford it. So I walked some more… and asked another tuk tuk driver. He first quoted me 70,000kip, I asked for 50. He lowered to 60…I insisted for 50…then tried to walked away… slowly… then he gave in. Hah! This trick is very effective sometimes.

The Northern Bus station is quite far from the city. Though, I felt guilty about haggling the price, I think it was just fair. Anyway, the normal fare for a public transport from the city centre to the terminal is only 15,000 to 20,000kip. I just didn’t know where to find them. Some backpackers told me it’s near Talat Sao mall.

Upon entering the terminal, I heard a very familiar song in the background that made freeze my feet, and raised my eyebrows while turning my head left and right, trying to locate where that song came from. Ah. It was from their huge flat screen television hanged on the wall. They were showing some boxing fights and the Philippine National Anthem was sung. It did make me smile for a moment.

I went straight to the counter and save myself a seat for a VIP sleeper bus to Luang Prabang, (150,000kip) which will depart at 8pm (last trip). It was only 4pm. Still have four more hours to kill. 

Express Ordinary bus – 110,000 (earliest bus leaves at 6am)

VIP sitting bus (bus with toilet and with food coupon) – 130,000kip  (last trip for VIP bus is 7pm..)

Travel time from Vientiane to Luang Prabang is about 10 - 12  hours, depending on your bus of choice. It wasn't really first choice, the sleeper bus. I was forced to buy one, because it will arrive in Luang Prabang at around 5am or 6am. I won’t be worrying about wandering the streets by those hours. If I took the earlier ones, it will arrive in the town by 3am or 4am, and I have nowhere to go… I didn’t book any accommodation yet. I’m just not confident arriving in LP that early.

So, I boringly waited and wasted my time in the terminal – so bored that I didn’t even have a photo of it, except for one. Tsk. Tsk.

Do not expect buses to Luang Prabang will leave the terminal on time. Give it at least an hour extra. I was starting to worry about mine. It will be a little late for me if I arrive in LP at around 8am. So minutes before the 730pm VIP bus leaves (original trip schedule is 7pm), I rushed to the counter to change my ticket from sleeper bus to VIP sitting bus. The attendant gave me back my 150,000 kip… and I bought 130,000 ticket for VIP sitting bus.

I actually thought I save few bucks after changing my tickets. Well, the VIP sitting bus isn’t really for VIPs.  It may look comfy outside, but you can barely feel the AC inside. Seriously, I was torturing myself for that another stupid decision. I was imagining how my life would have been if I took the sleeper bus.

After an hour, aircon-less, bumpy ride… the bus stopped. They were trying to fix the aircon. It worked…for some time… then it was gone…  So we stopped again… and all of a sudden they announced that we need to transfer to the sleeper bus because our bus broke down. Boom!

Minutes later, the sleeper bus came. We thought we will be transferring for free, because it wasn’t our fault that our VIP bus broke down. But we’re wrong. They asked for additional 20,000kip for the price of the sleeper bus. Some Western backpackers argued and insisted not to pay – but do they have a choice? They won’t be able to ride the sleeper bus, if they don’t pay 20,000kip. In the end, they handed down the money and hopped into the bus. Good thing I paid right away that I was able to secure one of the few seats available. Other foreign backpackers settled in the aisle in between sleeping seats. Whew!

Compared to the shaky ride in the VIP bus, the sleeper bus seemed to be more comfortable and less bumpy. Was it really the bus or the driver, I don’t know. At least for few hours, I was able to find some sleep and woke up the next morning in the beautiful town of Luang Prabang – the Jewel in Laos Crown.

On the Road: Luang Prabang to Vientiane by Bus

When you’re travelling Luang Prabang to Vientiane by bus, and it falls on a Sunday, make sure to reserve your seats early or you’ll end up spending another night in the town.

It didn’t happen to me, thank God, or else I’ll end up staying overnight in the bus terminal. Haha.

My new friends from Indonesia will be travelling back to Vientiane the same day I do. So Anis and I went to the bus station at around 9am to purchase our tickets in advance. They needed to be in Vientiane as early as 4am because they need to catch their flight back to Indonesia by 9am. While I’m in no hurry getting back to Vientiane because my train to Bangkok does not leave until 6pm. They took the 4pm Express bus (110,000kip) while I had my VIP sitting bus at 730pm (130,000kip). VIP sleeper bus leaves at 8pm (150,000)

At the counter, we met this very friendly guy, Mike… I complained to him about what happened to our VIP bus on my way to LP…so I asked him to make sure that the aircon of the VIP bus works this time and it cannot break down in the middle of the road, because I no longer have extra 20,000 kip to pay for another transfer to sleeper bus. Haha. (By the way, it was Mike to give me free ride to Kuangsi Falls…)

That day, according to Mike, there were only three buses travelling from LP to Vientiane. The one that departs at 4pm (express bus), then 730pm (VIP bus) and 8pm (sleeper bus). It doesn’t really happen every day, but just to be safe, buy your tickets early. It was the sleeper bus who got fully booked first.

Minutes before 7pm, I was already in the bus terminal, with my other Chinese friend Ben.

VIP Sleeper bus - 150,000kip (last trip 8pm)

VIP sitting bus - 130,000kip (last trip - 730pm)

I am really sure if the bus left the station on the dot, because I was sleepy already. Thanks to Mike, I got the best seat in the bus. Haha.

VIP buses offers free meal, coupon is attached to your ticket. But I wasn’t able to use mine. Food looks okay, but not really that appetizing for me.

bus stop

After almost 12 grueling ride, we arrive in the northern bus terminal in Vientiane. We then joined the locals riding the public tuktuk that cost 20,000kip. We dropped off at the central bus station (near Talat Sao mall).

On The Rail: Thailand to Laos by Train

Moving on from my tragic airport story, I went straight to the Hualamphong Railway Station (Bangkok’s main railway station) to officially start my second solo backpacking. 

Destination: Laos.

I won’t be more interested travelling to Laos if not for the train connection between Thailand’s last train station (Nong Khai) and Laos’ first station (Thanaleng). You see, only the great Mekong River separates the two countries that can be crossed hassle free through the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. You can also fly to Laos from Thailand, but that’s not really one of my options.

So from Hualamphong Railway station in Bangkok, I secured my second class sleeper train tickets for 488 baht. It’s a non-AC coach with tiny roaches everywhere. Not really advisable for maaarte (fussy) travelers. I read it’s cheaper when you get the upper bed, so I chose one and it’s s little safer from the brown colored crawling insects. Sleeper train number 69 departs Bangkok to Nong Khai at 8pm. (for other reference, click here.)

It was my first time to be in a public railway station as big as Hualamphong station, after all it’s the main Bangkok Railway station. I’ve seen the PNR station in Naga, and I don’t want to compare it with the one in Bangkok. Haha.

After purchasing my tickets, I immediately asked for their shower room. I read somewhere they have one, so I started to roam around. I won’t be checking in into a hotel in two days, so this shower room will be of great comfort to my stinky body.

shower for 20baht

This isn’t a Venetian Hotel shower room not even close to a regular hotel shower room but if you’re not really choosy and you need to washen up your filthy bodies, this can suffice your needs.

The railway station also has left baggage counter. It’s opposite the ticket counter. Here, you can leave your heavy bags for a minimum fee. Small bags for 50 baht, medium bags for 60 baht, large bags for 70 baht… and 80-100 baht for extra large bags.

Just above the left luggage counter, you will find one internet shop. If you badly needed to get in touch online, this can be your only option in the station. They charge differently if you’re using their computer for internet surfing ... or if you want to connect to their wifi using your own device.

There are a lot of food stalls inside the station. They also had food court area, where you can buy coupon in exchange for food. Like other food court restaurants in Bangkok, you will be refunded for the unused coupon.

30baht with water - kasi sa tingin ko ito lang ang kaya kong kainin 

I didn't finish my meal, my taste buds cannot just tolerate the very unfamiliar taste. So I went out the food court and leisurely walked the vicinity of the station. Tried looking for the platform 9 and ¾ but I failed.. (I  realized, it’s not in Bangkok.. haha)

Our train was scheduled to leave Huamlaphong station at 8pm, but it started to move at around 830pm.

 train to Nong Khai at Platform #5

 inside second class, non-AC sleeper coach

 lower beds are convertible chairs joined into one... see photo below

 now, that's the lower and upper beds of a second class sleeper train in Thailand

 my first official overnight accommodation

unofficial overnight yung sa airport..haha

It was a small but modest, I must say I had a pretty good sleep overnight with my upper deck bed… Why wouldn't I, been awake for more than 24 hours… half of it was spend in the airport, fighting starvation, overcoming disgrace and shame, while de-stressing oneself about an unforgivable mistake of having poor memory. Talk about old age. Haha.

Fast forward:

We were supposed to arrive in Nong Khai station at 825am, but it was already 830, yet we’re still few stations away from our destination. Had I known, I shouldn’t have woken up early.

 mornings somewhere in Thailand

anong petsa na, 20 km pa?!

Few more hours from our estimated arrival time, we reached Nong Khai station. From here, I had to ride another train to cross the Thai-Lao friendship bridge, going to Thanaleng station in Ventienne, the capital city of Laos. (fare: 20baht)

 another 15-minute train ride to cross the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge

 hello Mekong River...my father says hi! 

Arriving Thanaleng station means passing the Lao Immigration…this is hassle free for Asian people…

Thanaleng station is in the middle of nowhere. It’s very far from the city centre and the only option for a ride is to hire a tuk tuk or van which is very visible in the area. Problem is they charge too much. Well, 300 baht for a tuktuk ride is too much for budget traveler like me, whose money is just enough for a five day economical adventure.

So after checking the price of the tuk tuk, I started asking other foreign backpackers where they’re heading. Luckily, I was able to convince four men to share the 300 baht tuk tuk ride to Ventienne. It wasn’t that hard, they were just waiting for me to approach them about the ride. Haha.

my first friends in Laos (two Japanese, one american, one Russian...) forgot their names...haha 

The tuk tuk ride took at least 45 minutes from Thanaleng station to the city centre – the central bus station (near Talat Sao Mall).

Now, I’m officially in Laos.