On The Rail: Laos to Thailand by Train

From Luang Prabang, I met this American backpacker, Kim… she’s heading to Phuket. She’s supposed to ride the sleeper bus to Thailand from Vientiane, but upon realizing that it’s cheaper to take the train, she decided to tag along with me.

After almost 12 hour  bus ride, we arrived the northern bus station in Vientiane. We took the public tuktuk to the central bus station, near Talat Sao Mall. (fare: 20,000kip)

mornings at the central bus station in Vientiane

I made two options for my return journey to Nong Khai station, from Vientiane city centre.

First, I will be doing the reverse of what I did when I first arrive from Bangkok. Hire a tuk tuk back to Thanaleng station… that will cost me 300 baht or more… then ride the border train to cross the bridge over Mekong River. With this option, I needed to arrive Thanaleng station before 5pm, because the last trip schedule of Thanaleng-Nong Khai train is 5pm.We tried bargaining with tuk tuk and van drivers, but they’re just very expensive. I only have few bucks left. This led us to my other option – later I realized was the cheaper and better and more comfortable option.

Second, is to ride the local bus from the central bus station in Vientiane to Nong Khai bus station. Fare is only 15,000 kip. Then from Nong Khai bus station, hire a tuk tuk to Nong Khai railway station – standard tuk tuk rate is 50 baht per person, but Kim and I was able to bargain for 60baht for two persons. Haha. Seriously, you need to master your haggling skills if you’re dealing with tuk tuk drivers.

So we decided to take the bus to Nong Khai station. I was hesitant about the second option because I thought we will be riding an ordinary, non-AC bus. But I was surprised when I saw this one. After all, we will be crossing the border…

In all fairness, it was way more comfortable than riding the tuk tuk. From the central bus station, we dropped off the Lao Immigration for our departure stamp... and the border immigration in Nong Khai for our arrival stamp to Thailand. It was very quick and easy.

REMINDER IF YOU’RE HEADING TO THE TRAIN STATION:

After getting you passports back and finally crossing Nong Khai border immigration, you don’t need to ride the bus again… because the railway station is just a 10-15 minute walk away from the border. Just ask for directions. With this, you can save at least 30baht for the tuk tuk ride from the terminal.

It was too late for us to realize this when we saw the signage directing to the railway station. We wanted to halt the bus driver but we were too shy to do so. So we arrive in the bus station and we were mobbed by the ever present and ever persuasive tuk tuk drivers. Funny, they didn’t actually care about me, as I look very local to them. It was my white complexioned companion, Kim, that they continued to crowd around before she can even get her luggage in the bus compartment.

The one and only driver we asked charged us with whooping 60 baht per person to the railway station. He even showed us their taripa. But we walked away. He followed us to the other side of the terminal until he agreed to our price of 30 baht per person.

We hopped into the tuk tuk and after 10 minutes, we arrive in Nong Khai railway station.

Kim was able to purchase one second class upper deck sleeper bed for 488 baht… just across my assigned bed. I bought my roundtrip tickets in Hualamphong  Railway station the day I travelled to Laos.

Arriving in the station four hours early from your estimated departure time can be very boring… good thing Nong Khai railway station has free wifi, though not very stable, but just enough to check FB messages and update one’s status. Haha.

They also have shower rooms… bigger and cleaner than the ones in Hualamphong railway station. I had no plans taking a bath, but upon feeling the lukewarm waters of the shower, I decided to have one.  

sunset somewhere in Thailand

The train departed the station at exactly 620pm, and was expected to arrive in Bangkok railway station at 625 the next morning. Apparently, it did not happen. We arrive in the station at around eight in the morning.

Now I’m back to Bangkok.

On The Rail: Thailand to Laos by Train

Moving on from my tragic airport story, I went straight to the Hualamphong Railway Station (Bangkok’s main railway station) to officially start my second solo backpacking. 

Destination: Laos.

I won’t be more interested travelling to Laos if not for the train connection between Thailand’s last train station (Nong Khai) and Laos’ first station (Thanaleng). You see, only the great Mekong River separates the two countries that can be crossed hassle free through the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. You can also fly to Laos from Thailand, but that’s not really one of my options.

So from Hualamphong Railway station in Bangkok, I secured my second class sleeper train tickets for 488 baht. It’s a non-AC coach with tiny roaches everywhere. Not really advisable for maaarte (fussy) travelers. I read it’s cheaper when you get the upper bed, so I chose one and it’s s little safer from the brown colored crawling insects. Sleeper train number 69 departs Bangkok to Nong Khai at 8pm. (for other reference, click here.)

It was my first time to be in a public railway station as big as Hualamphong station, after all it’s the main Bangkok Railway station. I’ve seen the PNR station in Naga, and I don’t want to compare it with the one in Bangkok. Haha.

After purchasing my tickets, I immediately asked for their shower room. I read somewhere they have one, so I started to roam around. I won’t be checking in into a hotel in two days, so this shower room will be of great comfort to my stinky body.

shower for 20baht

This isn’t a Venetian Hotel shower room not even close to a regular hotel shower room but if you’re not really choosy and you need to washen up your filthy bodies, this can suffice your needs.

The railway station also has left baggage counter. It’s opposite the ticket counter. Here, you can leave your heavy bags for a minimum fee. Small bags for 50 baht, medium bags for 60 baht, large bags for 70 baht… and 80-100 baht for extra large bags.

Just above the left luggage counter, you will find one internet shop. If you badly needed to get in touch online, this can be your only option in the station. They charge differently if you’re using their computer for internet surfing ... or if you want to connect to their wifi using your own device.

There are a lot of food stalls inside the station. They also had food court area, where you can buy coupon in exchange for food. Like other food court restaurants in Bangkok, you will be refunded for the unused coupon.

30baht with water - kasi sa tingin ko ito lang ang kaya kong kainin 

I didn't finish my meal, my taste buds cannot just tolerate the very unfamiliar taste. So I went out the food court and leisurely walked the vicinity of the station. Tried looking for the platform 9 and ¾ but I failed.. (I  realized, it’s not in Bangkok.. haha)

Our train was scheduled to leave Huamlaphong station at 8pm, but it started to move at around 830pm.

 train to Nong Khai at Platform #5

 inside second class, non-AC sleeper coach

 lower beds are convertible chairs joined into one... see photo below

 now, that's the lower and upper beds of a second class sleeper train in Thailand

 my first official overnight accommodation

unofficial overnight yung sa airport..haha

It was a small but modest, I must say I had a pretty good sleep overnight with my upper deck bed… Why wouldn't I, been awake for more than 24 hours… half of it was spend in the airport, fighting starvation, overcoming disgrace and shame, while de-stressing oneself about an unforgivable mistake of having poor memory. Talk about old age. Haha.

Fast forward:

We were supposed to arrive in Nong Khai station at 825am, but it was already 830, yet we’re still few stations away from our destination. Had I known, I shouldn’t have woken up early.

 mornings somewhere in Thailand

anong petsa na, 20 km pa?!

Few more hours from our estimated arrival time, we reached Nong Khai station. From here, I had to ride another train to cross the Thai-Lao friendship bridge, going to Thanaleng station in Ventienne, the capital city of Laos. (fare: 20baht)

 another 15-minute train ride to cross the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge

 hello Mekong River...my father says hi! 

Arriving Thanaleng station means passing the Lao Immigration…this is hassle free for Asian people…

Thanaleng station is in the middle of nowhere. It’s very far from the city centre and the only option for a ride is to hire a tuk tuk or van which is very visible in the area. Problem is they charge too much. Well, 300 baht for a tuktuk ride is too much for budget traveler like me, whose money is just enough for a five day economical adventure.

So after checking the price of the tuk tuk, I started asking other foreign backpackers where they’re heading. Luckily, I was able to convince four men to share the 300 baht tuk tuk ride to Ventienne. It wasn’t that hard, they were just waiting for me to approach them about the ride. Haha.

my first friends in Laos (two Japanese, one american, one Russian...) forgot their names...haha 

The tuk tuk ride took at least 45 minutes from Thanaleng station to the city centre – the central bus station (near Talat Sao Mall).

Now, I’m officially in Laos.