Temple-hopping in Luang Prabang

Legend has it that Buddha smiled when he rested here for a day during his travels. Prophesying that it would one day be the site of a rich and powerful capital city – UNESCO.Org

No wonder Luang Prabang is a home to more than 30 temples that houses hundreds of monks. Actually, there were almost 70 different temples in the town since the beginning of Lao history, but only few survived and now are being preserved.

Watmai Suwannaphumaham (The New Monastery of the Golden Land)

Entrance fee: 10, 000kip
It is the largest and most richly decorated of the temples in Luang Prabang.

Wat Nong Sikhounmuang 

Free entrance
Wat Nong Sikhounmuang is one of the bigger temples in Luang Prabang. It was built in 1729, during the reign of King Inta Som (1727-76), but was razed in a fire in 1774. The only thing salvaged from the fire was a bronze statue. A full restoration was carried out in 1804 by the Thais, thereby introducing some Thai elements to the design. - source.

Wat Sop Sickharam 

Free entrance

Wat Xieng Thong (Monastery of the Golden City)

Entrance 20, 000
Wat Xieng Thong is regarded as the most beautiful temple, not only in Luang Prabang but one of the most exquisite in all of Laos. It is one of the most important Lao monasteries and remains a significant monument of the spirit of religion, royalty and traditional art. - wiki

Wat That Chomsi/ Mount Phou Si/ Wat Tham Phou si

Entrance fee: 20, 000kip

Mount Phou Si is a 100m high hill in the centre of the town of Luang Prabang. It lies in the heart of the old town peninsula and is bordered on one side by the Mekong River and Nam Khan River on the other side. The hill is a local religious site and houses several Buddhist shrine. - wiki

Halfway up the hill, overlooking the Nam Khan is Wat Tham Phou Si, a Buddhist temple. At the summit of the hill, overlooking the town and surrounding countryside, is Wat Chom Si, which is also a Buddhist temple and is a tourist highlight of Luang Prabang. - wiki

I ended my temple hopping at the summit of Mount Phou Si, and waited for the beautiful sunset to wrap my beautiful day.

sunsets in Luang Prabang

The Natural Charm of Luang Prabang

This is the main reason why I wanted to visit Laos. I knew nothing about Luang Prabang when I overheard someone said it is a UNESCO heritage town. Curiosity tickled my mind, how can a town be a UNESCO Heritage site. I mean, most of the UNESCO heritage sites I have been to are places or just spots like the Rice Terraces in Batad and the Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, but not really an entire town to be called as such. Then I asked my friendly neighborhood aide Google for more information… and the next thing I knew, I was engagingly researching how to go to Luang Prabang the cheapest possible way.

Luang Prabang, which name means The Royal Buddha Image, is also known as the Jewel in Laos Crown. There is really something fascinating in this town to be chosen a UNESCO Heritage site, and I wanted to see and experience for myself the mystery of this place.

From Vientiane, I took the VIPsitting bus from Vientiane to Luang Prabang. I didn’t book any accommodation in LP, but I had one guesthouse in mind. It’s quite far from the bus terminal and I need to ride a tuk tuk for 20,000 kip. But since, I was trying to save my money, I decided to walk. I just asked for directions going to the city centre and started walking. Though most Lao people cannot converse English properly, they were kind enough to show me the way. There was even one guy who offered me a free ride –  siguro nahalata nyang wala akong pangtuktuk haha... but I declined. Hindi pa ako masyadong confident. Haha.

 

So I enjoyed my morning walking exercise… trying to feel the cold, quiet mornings of Luang Prabang. I noticed they only have tuk tuk, motorbike and bikes… and private cars. No trucks and buses visible on the streets.

Upon checking in at Xayana Guesthouse, I didn’t waste my precious time inside the dorm. Even when my bed is so tempting, I decided to start my tour in the town – at midday! (Sunogan ito ng balat!)

Did I ever mention I haven’t eaten yet – I mean, a proper meal? Yeah. And these row of food stalls just few steps outside my guesthouse saved my day. I just bought iced coffee and baguette. Since Laos has been colonized by French government, not only their buildings are French-inspired, but also their bread.

bags of baguette

With my hands full, I started walking while sightseeing… and trying to contemplate why and how this town made it to the UNESCO Heritage site lists.

Luang Prabang is just a small town and you can cover the whole area in a day, that is if you want to cover the whole thing. But I just wanted to enjoy the walk and feel the difference of this town.

I saw these children in a day centre. Talked to them, but they cannot speak English much. They were actually the first ones to ask me where I’m from – because they thought I am a local. I look like one. Haha.

Compared to Ho Chi Minh and Siem Reap, Luang Prabang is a quiet and simple town. Very laidback, parang probinsya lang. No motorbikes queueing the streets. No skyscraper buildings and modern infrastructures. No theme parks like Hong Kong. No shopping malls like Bangkok. No casinos like Macau. Everything in Luang Prabang is traditional. Seeing the old houses and ancient looking architectural structure gave me the feeling that I have been transferred to a different era of Lao history. Though French influences are noticeable but they have also kept their tradition alive – and those streets and houses and buildings even hotels speaks for themselves. 

 the Mekong River

Talk about tradition, did you know that in Laos, all women are ‘required’ to wear their traditional skirts all the time? It's called sinhs. The sinh, woven with diverse motifs and colors, reflects the culture, social relationships, and beliefs from community to community and region to region - source. I first noticed this tradition while in Vientiane. I thought it was just a uniform in an office, but upon seeing even a pancake vendor wearing almost the same style of skirt, I begun to wonder – and suspect that this could be part of their rich culture. I mean, I never saw a Lao lady wearing any other skirt apart from this kind. Even when they’re just staying at home or running errands, they’re wearing it. They have different colors, different designs but it has one signature style. Even school uniform for girls has the same style. I saw they’re selling these skirts in the night market, but as much as I wanted to buy one, my budget won’t fit. So I just decided to take photos of the skirts worn by women. Apparently, I accidentally deleted all of them (don’t know how it happened, but I was able to save one.)

Other photos taken from the internet.

Luang Prabang has also strict curfew policy. It’s like the whole town shuts down at 11pm. Even the night market closes by that time. This event can be a nightmare for those who love the night life. You can perhaps try Vang Vieng – I heard it’s the party town of Laos. That’s 3-4hours drive from LP.

The town is also blessed with numbers of temple that houses hundreds or thousands of monks. Magsasawa ka sa kakasalubong sa mga monks sa bawat kanto… which is a great experience. It’s not every day that you get to see monks in their different shade of orange robes… up close and smile at them, sometimes interact and converse with them... though others seemed to look too serious.

All photos were taken discreetly… paparazzi style.

Did you also know that in Luang Prabang, locals give alms to the monks, every morning? Actually, it has become one of the tourist attractions in the town. I didn't experience this one, because I overslept – something I regret up until now.

You see, monks don't get pay checks.They get food every day from the villagers. In Luang Prabang, alms giving or tak bat happens early in the morning along Sisavangvong Road. At this hour, you’ll see a procession of monks, carrying their bowl, collecting their food for the day and sometimes giving it back to the poor along the way. And the locals, they never get tired doing this every day of their lives because they believe it gives them spiritual redemption. 

Tak Bat  must be done in silence and as a sign of great respect, alms giver cannot make  any eye contact to the monks while giving food. Apparently, this tradition has slowly become endangered because of the tourists improperly participating the ritual.

photo from Anis

Now I think I cannot question UNESCO for declaring this town to be one of the few priceless heritage they want to save. Luang Prabang has a very distinct tradition and rich cultural inheritance that needs to be safeguarded from any form of abuse... because their innate charm – can never found anywhere else in the world.

My photos may not suffice the natural grandeur of LP, but my eyes were delighted and satisfied, and my heart is just humbled to have travelled this side of the world and experience the exceptional beauty of the town of Luang Prabang. 

Luang Prabang: Sengphet Guesthouse

I didn’t actually stay in Sengphet Guesthouse during my visit in Luang Prabang. It was my three new found friends from Indonesia who did. Sengphet Guesthouse is next to Xayana Guesthouse where I stayed for a night.

So why am I giving them space here? Well, this is my way of saying thank you to them, for welcoming me into their beautiful guesthouse.

After meeting the three, Anis, Wina and Egi invited me to their room in Sengphet Guesthouse. They had a three bed room accommodation for 150,000kip per night.

They told me I can stay with them for the night, only I have to sleep in their huge bathroom. Hmp.

What I enjoyed most in this guesthouse are the freebies along with the price tag. They have free flowing cold water and coffee and different types of tea. They also have free banana every day.

Though I get complimentary bottled water from Xayana Guesthouse, drinking a cold one is much better in Sengphet Guesthouse. Haha.

The next day, after missing the alms giving ceremony, I had breakfast and coffee at Sengphet Guesthouse with my Indonesian friends. I wanted to use my 3-in-1 coffee, but since they offer free coffee, I also tried theirs. Haha.

Wasn’t able to taste the banana though, I think it was too much of me, taking advantage of the guesthouse’s generosity.

They also have free stable wifi, which of course, I was able to try myself as well. Xayana Guesthouse has wifi also, though it cannot reach the four corners of our room.

I really did enjoy my stay in Sengphet Guesthouse. I mean, it felt like I stayed there, after all the freebies I get to experience. And the receptionist/owners, they’re an epitome of a true Lao, very nice and accommodating. They might have noticed me as a visitor yet they didn’t show any unpleasant treatment to me.

memories in Luang Prabang

Compare to Xayana Guesthouse whose lobby is very open to sunlight, Sengphet Guesthouse is more homey and relaxing because it’s covered with plants and flowers… and they have these two cute, noisy kittens. Haha.

Sabai dee!

Living in a Capsule: Xayana Guesthouse and X3 Capsule Hotel

One of the cheapest accommodations there is in Luang Prabang. I didn’t bother reserving any beds before arriving in the town. I just asked them once, through email, for the directions from the bus terminal. They advice me to take the tuk tuk, for 20,000 kip (regular fare), but since I was trying to save up, I walked.

After almost 20minute walk from the terminal, I had a gut feel of being lost. But Luang Prabang is too small to be lost in any translations. I was about to pull out my laptop and check the details of the guesthouse I was looking for, when I noticed one signage. It was the same as my desired guesthouse, though it's under a different name. Upon a closer look, it was one of their sister companies. So I went inside and asked for directions. The receptionist gave me a map and calling card of the guesthouse for additional reference. One famous landmark would be the Joma bakery.

Upon seeing the map, and knowing that Joma café is just around the corner, I hailed a tuktuk and bargained for a 5,000kip ride – and the driver agreed with a smile. (sa isip nya, sige na nga…haha!). And in less than five minutes, I was there.

I walked the alley adjacent to Joma bakery… and there it is – the Xayana Guesthouse and X3 Capsule Hotel.

with my three Indonesian friends (yan daw ang uso sa kanila)

Dorm bed was fully booked when I arrive. They suggested me to come back by noontime to check for availability. I cannot come back because I have nowhere to go. Besides, I can already smell my other self, I need to wash up right away. So I stayed in their hot, open lobby while waiting for an available bed. They were generous enough to give me the password of their wifi connection to keep me entertained. At that time, I really didn’t need wifi, but that dark-colored-liquid with cream powdered mate on it. I brought several sachets of my favorite 3-in-1 coffee, but I don’t know where to ask for hot water. As much as I wanted to buy one café latte at Joma’s, I was holding myself back. I cannot spend much, not yet.

Just before 10am, the lady receptionist asked me if I wanted to check in early – oh yes… So she led me to my room – X22 is my bed number.

 more beds upstairs

Almost all the beds in the room were occupied. I had mine on an upper bed, to my discomfort. It was my first time to stay in a dorm-type room. I was never comfortable sharing a room with others, I’ll make this one an exception because I’m on a tight budget.

 nakalimutan kong buksan ang ilaw.. haha

my capsule!

Beds are big, could actually fit for two...and comfortable. Bring your own towels, but if you don’t have one, you can rent theirs. They also provide complimentary water. Our room has two baths and two toilets. 

I was interested in this guesthouse not just because it’s cheap but because I thought I’d be able to experience sleeping in a capsule bed (imagining Japan’s famous capsule accommodations.) Apparently, it’s just the name or the photo in their website. Or maybe other rooms have it. I don’t know.  Other than this concern, it was a nice experience sleeping for a night in this guesthouse – my only room accommodation in my five night solo trip in Laos.

Xayana Guesthouse is very convenient in many ways. It’s in the town centre. Few steps away from the cheap bread and fruit shake stalls. Very near the night market and the morning alms ceremony. And if you can’t get a bed in their hotel, there are a lot of guesthouses near them that you can also check out, like Sengphet Guesthouse. 

Laos Capital City: Vientiane for a Day!

They say there’s nothing much to do in Vientiane that an expert traveler would skip this historical capital city of Laos… But as a greenhorn backpacker, I’d like to see it for myself. Though I didn’t really plan staying in the city for a night, I had few sites I wanted to visit. But due to the unbearable high temperature, I only managed to see two, albeit important ones.

1.      Patuxai

Perhaps the most famous landmark of Vientiane is Patuxai, also known as the Victory Gate. The first time I saw this photo, I thought it was taken from somewhere in Europe. Well, Laos was once colonized by France, and this is them telling us that they were once here.

You can climb the top of Patuxai to see the panoramic view of the town. Entrance fee is 3,000 kip. I paid in baht (15baht) because I wasn’t able to change my money yet to Lao kip. (Baht is widely acceptable in Vientiane.)

Can’t exactly remember how many floors there is that consist the monument. But each floors houses different stall selling different kind of souvenir items.

Climbing the stairs to the top can be very exhausting. Especially if you haven’t eaten anything yet since you arrive the country. Haha. I had bottled water to sustain my energy and slowly, I succeeded it – panting, almost out of breath.

If only I can leave my backpack in one of the souvenir stores, so I can roam around freely. But I think I had to endure all of it. My only consolation perhaps was the promising 360 degree-view of Vientiane right in front of me.

Even though I wasn’t able to explore the town itself, I think the picture I’ve seen on top of Patuxai will do me, for now.

Patuxai can be compared to our Luneta Park, camera men are all over the place. Mind you, they’re not your ordinary camera men, because they have the most updated cameras in hand… (naghahabaan pati ang mga lente nila) and they have mobile developing area… you can see it at the back of their vans located in the parking area. 

2.    Pha That Luang

Not very far from Patuxai, is the Pha That Luang also known as the National Monument. I saw it from the map displayed in the Victory Gate. So I just asked for directions and walked relaxingly under the excruciating heat of the sun.  

It took me at least 15 minutes to get to the temple. There’s an entrance fee for foreign visitors, so I didn’t bother. I just took few shots outside and check other temples near it that doesn’t require you to pay for the entrance.

While trying to differentiate my baht and kip bills… I realized Lao money has this photo of National Monument. Made me think, did I really make the right choice skipping to view the temple? After all, it’s called the national monument. It must have played a bigger role to the history of Lao Republic. It was a cheap entrance fee though, I just didn’t want to spend another dime because I was trying to save my money. Haay.

I wanted to experience more of Vientiane but the heat was totally unbearable. Besides, I cannot spend much in the city because I still have Luang Prabang waiting for me.

Before heading to the terminal for my bus ride to Luang Prabang, I went to a bank near the National Monument to change my Thai baht to Laotian kip. (1 baht = 268 kip).