Tappiya Falls: The other pride of Batad



Batad is not just about the scenic ampitheatre rice terraces in Batad. One of the tourist attractions in the village is Tappiya falls. It is said to be twice bigger than Pagsanjan falls. But there’s no easy way to get to this another majestic waterfalls.

Trekking to the waterfalls can be tricky, so hire a guide. Even mommy Earl, a fifth timer in Batad, is not confident to guide us through to the falls, so we asked Mang Ramon to lead us. Guides are available at the registration area, for 500 as the minimum charge.

Tappiya falls is likely located at the back of the terraces... and more likely at the bottom of the mountain. So after you succeeded the narrow ledges of the rice terraces, you need to walk through a steep and almost vertical slope to the falls.

It more risky than trekking to Bomod-ok falls in Sagada. But we’re less worried about slogging down to the falls, we’re more concerned on how we will endure trudging up.

Waterfalls never fail to mesmerize me. There’s just something about them that makes you say ‘wow’ after catching a very deep breath.

Hate to be so chizzy, but I asked J if it was all worth it – the trek, the waterfalls and me- he answered with a yes and a kiss. *wink*

But you don't think we came all the way to Tappiya falls just to stare the never ending flooding waters from the viewpoint, did you? We hiked some more to get near to the feet of the grand creature.

The place is perfect for recreating a particular Breaking Dawn scenes, but the waters are torturously freezing. Besides, we cannot go beneath the cascading waters, as it is said to be extremely dangerous. The current is very strong. Others would prefer not to take the plunge because it’s seriously cold. Brrrrhhh! But hey, we’re here, we’ve travelled this far, might as well, seize the moment.

We stayed in the waters for at least thirty minutes, before heading back to our trail. Bitin.

As mentioned, hiking up is far more complicated than going to the falls. It can consume all your energy, that you have to stop from time to time to regain an ounce of power to continue the climb.

We envy Russel, our little backpacker. He has Mang Ramon to carry him through difficult paths. If only J can carry me too. Haha. He was even complaining about aftermath muscle pains. Good thing, my beloved is shape to endure the trek back and forth.

And to add more adventure to our journey, we encountered a drunk man making his way back to the village. Seriously, I never thought I’d met a guy under the influence of liquor who can walk through this kind of life-threatening slopes. The drunk guy has a bolo in his waist. And we started to panic. Thanks to the adrenaline rush brought to us by the unexpected guest – mommy Earl was able rush her way up to the next waiting shed, where our guide and Russel were waiting. While the rest of us, were at the tail end, trying to think how to pass our way from the drunk man, safely. Inch and I tried to slow down from hiking up, while J who maintained his composure amid the panic moment insisted that we keep walking and just ignore the guy. This was the part that I was grasping my memory about Chyng Reyes’ isolated case in Batad. I tried not to tell them about it, to avoid horror in our almost-perfect-getaway. In all fairness, the drunk man, who seemed so drunk but not so much was kind enough to guide us through to the next rest stop. He kept on shouting that we move faster, and so we did until we reach the waiting shed. Haha.

While catching our breath in the resting area… we talked about our worst trek ever… as this superb experience to Tappiya falls can make it to the top of our list..

Me: Pinakamahirap pa rin saken yung sa Pico. Kulang na lang umiyak ako dun.

Inch: Ako, eto… kasi di naman ako gumapang sa Pico… dito, gumapang ako…

So if you plan to just stare the terraces in Batad, think again, there’s one beauty to behold behind the magnificent ampitheatre of rice fields.

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unamrked photos by Early Guanzon

Batad Rice Terraces: A natural beauty

December may not be the best month to visit the terraces in Batad, because it’s also the time of the year when the fields gets bald after the harvest and is being tilled in preparation for the next planting season. Even so, it’s always the ultimate experience that makes the journey worth all the muscle pains.

Batad rice terraces is one of the five Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras that is part of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Others includes Bangaan rice terraces (also in Banaue), Mayoyao rice terraces, Hungduan rice terraces and Nagacadan rice terraces.

Noticed something? Yes, the famous Banaue rice terraces, the one who always made it to the post cards and history books, the hangdan- hangdang palayan in your one-thousand peso bill are not part of the UNESCO World Heritage sites, ‘due to the presence of numerous modern structures, making it score low in the integrity criterion of UNESCO’ - Wikipedia.

Perhaps that’s a little wake up call for everyone to preserve the remaining natural treasure our forefathers left us.

Trekking Batad rice terraces is but another fulfillment in my to-do list before I die. Well, not exactly, because it’s the one in Banaue I want to get up close with, because it’s the most famous. But after some revelation, I think Batad was the best choice.

But getting up close to her was never easy. We travelled for nine grueling hours from Manila to Banaue, then another two-hour bumpy ride from Banaue to Saddle… an hour downhill trek from Saddle to the village… and more trekking challenge followed ... All these we’re willing to deal with, just to...

go near her…

walk through her...

experience her...  

feel her...

to endure her…

celebrate with her...



There were few foreign nationals we met along the way coming from our supposed destination. They all look very exhausted. We all are. Trekking Batad rice terraces is not a walk in the park. Unless you are fit and you’re used to hiking, then you will enjoy this strenuous adventure. Otherwise, you’ll just satisfy your eyes gazing the view of the almost empty-chocolate-brown-colored rice paddies from afar, or maybe from the balcony of Hillside Inn, while contemplating how our ancestors made such a magnificent structure minus technology and machinery.

I won’t think twice going back to Batad rice terraces on summer when the paddy fields were all covered up with ripening yellow rice stalks. Because even when on her non-blossoming days, the rice terraces in Batad are simply a natural beauty.

****

unmarked photos by Inch Datuin

Batad: An accidental anniversary getaway

…it’s the most wonderful time of the year!

Not just because of the holiday seasons, but because it’s the part of the year where we celebrate our anniversary. Char!

So to start our new year together, we had options in tow. Celebrate it underwater, through scuba diving in Anilao, Batangas, or shoot the rapids in a day trip to Pagsanjan Falls.

After some research, we both realized that scuba diving is out of our league. 2,100 per person, for a day trip was the cheapest rate I found, exclusive of our transportation to and fro Manila. And take note, it’s just for a 30-45 minute dive. You have to pay another 1,500 for a re-dive. Whew! This cannot be my part time hobby.

Shooting the rapids in Pagsanjan falls is way cheaper that scuba diving, but J find it nakakabitin if we just do it day trip. We cannot spend overnight either (with just the two of us). And it seemed like no one among our friends were interested to join us.

Days before the dates we allotted for this getaway, Mommy Earl, ang aming tanging ina suggested that since we won’t have any climb this month because of the holidays, we might as well take the chance to travel to Batad, instead of doing it on its original schedule – January of next year. I was totally elated with the suggestion, but a little hesitant because my partner might not like it. He simply hates long hour bus rides. But after using my super convincing lambing powers, he agreed to it and we had our (my) dream anniversary getaway. Haha.

14December, 2011

Happy anniversary!

We decided not to go out to celebrate as we needed to prepare our things for our trip. We just went to our suking tindahan and shop for our baon sa byahe. Even if this is our anniversary getaway, it doesn’t mean we had to overdo our expenses. But for an overnight trip, I think we spent nearly 500 pesos for our baon only. Tsk. Tsk.

**Going to Batad, you need to take the bus to Banaue. As of this writing, only the Ohayami bus company (516.05.01) is servicing the route Manila-Banaue, daily at 10 in the evening, for 450 pesos, one way. Bus terminal is located in Espania cor. Lacson St. (near UST). Make sure to call for ticket reservation as they can go fully booked. Other buses that travels the same route are Autobus and Florida bus but they temporarily suspended their respective trip schedules.**

So I called for our ticket reservation and the attendant told us to pick up the tickets before 6pm. Good thing my adopted brother Inch, who is joining our trip, is just a stone away from the terminal, so he was the one who claimed our tickets. Do take note, Ohayami bus honors student and senior citizen discounts.

And when they say, claim your tickets before 6pm, trust them, as there are a lot of chance passangers in the terminal that might benefit from your ticket reservation when you cannot claim it on time. Just like this Brit-accented family who wasn’t able to claim their tickets on time – they were left with no choice but to settle in the aisle of the bus. The mother sat on a mono block like a queen, while the father set an instant bed in the aisle. They managed however to provide a comfortable seat for their son.

We arrived the terminal almost two hours before our departure. We decided to fill our empty stomachs in a nearby karenderia. At least, before we ended our very special day, we had our traditional dinner date.

15December, 2011

After nine long, tiresome hours… we finally arrived Banaue. This is my second time in Banaue, and my third in Benguet – for this year. Whew. Parang divisoria lang haha..

Upon disembarking the bus, we were welcomed by a flock guides and drivers offering their services. Most of them were asking for Sagada-bound passangers. We just ignored them and proceeded for our breakfast at the Greenview Lodge. I personally wanted to let J experience ‘the pancake ‘at Greenview Lodge. We were surprised by its size when we first saw it last March (enroute Sagada.)

J said it taste different. May kakaibang sarap daw. I can’t tell because it tastes normal to me. Haha. I’m just amazed by its enormosity. Haha.

While enjoying our breakfast, someone gently approached us and asked where we heading. He offered his jeep for rent for 2,000 to Saddle, our next destination. We tried to bargain, as there were only four of us, and 2,000 budget for the jeep rental will surely hurt our budget. We were even hopeful to find another set of Batad-bound travelers for us to split the amount with, but there was none.

So we decided to arrange our transport to Saddle through with Kuya Rhenson (0916.713.1679, 0905.3718033, rhenswood@yahoo.com) who casually talks to us in English. In all fairness, he has better English than tour guides and drivers from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand (no offense meant.)

** Options to go to the Saddle**

1. Take the public transport, for 100-150 pesos only. BUT there’s only ONE trip in a day, that’s at 2pm daily.

2. Rent a trike to the junction, for 400-500 (per trike).. BUT after arriving the junction, you still need to trek an uphill, rock-strewn trail for an hour or two to the Saddle, depending on your strength… (most foreigners do this, alongside with their large-sized backpacks. But I won’t suggest you take this option.)

3. Rent a jeep, for 2,000 or less … find more company to split the amount… be in the Saddle a little after an hour and thirty minutes. (a bit pricey but more comfortable)

Obviously, we took option three. We needed to arrive Batad village before lunch, so we can rest for the trek to Tappiya falls in the afternoon. Option one is better when you plan to stay longer in the town.

On our way to the Saddle, we passed by a couple foreign backpacker, we offered them a ride and asked them to help us pay the jeepney rent, but they declined. They wanted to pay the fee for the public transport only. My bad, I immediately told me that we had to split the 2,000 rent. I could’ve asked them to pay what’s due for a public transport, at least, nabawasan pa rin kami ng ilang daan… tsk..tsk.. Oh well, it wasn’t really a good decision for them either, as the way to the Saddle is a serious matter. We weren’t even allowed to top load, as the roads were rough and uncomfortable. There were some major constructions along the way that made the roads even more difficult to navigate.

I seriously felt guilty for the two backpackers. I can’t imagine how will they manage to pass the crooked roads with their feet and with heavy backpacks. Tsk tsk.

We also passed by the famous hanging house, but we never bother checking it, as we were conscious about the time.

After 45 minutes, we reached the junction. We asked Kuya Rhenson to stop for a while for us to have some photo ops.

We hopped back to the almost empty jeep. There were only four and a half of us, so Kuya Rhenson asked us to move closer to the front to minimize bumps at the backseats. It doesn’t sound good to me. It was like a warning that something is about to happen in the second half of our ride.

Well, nothing bad happened. It was just another monstrous ride, just like what we had on our way to Mt. Pulag. I think it was even worse than that. That’s why I won’t recommend that you take option two on your way to Saddle. No wonder, tricycle can only go until the junction as their wheels and strength cannot handle the roads up to the saddle. It’s more rocky than the roads to Mt. Pulag.

Being a driver himself, J was telling me that the 2,000 rent is worth all the sweat, as it is never easy to be driving that kind of an exhausting, jagged road. Well, Kuya Rhenson made it worth all our penny.

THE SADDLE

After more than an hour drive, we arrived the Saddle, relieved from yet another exhausting and challenging trip. We wasted no time, and started our trek to the village.

Going down the trail road has two option. The short cut and the long cut. None of which requires a guide, not yet, as there’s only one trail in each way. We first took the long cut and the more tiring short cut going back. (I’d suggest you take the short cut on your way down, and long cut on your way up.)
 

welcome to Batad!

It’s Mommy Earl fifth or sixth time in Batad, so we’re confident not to ask for a guide on our way to the village. Even when you’re a first timer. Just trust your instinct and follow the road to the village (there’s only one…)

The trek down to the village was like a walk in the park for us. Even Russel, 4, our little backpacker enjoyed every single step of it. Nauuna pa nga sya samen, palibhasa wala syang bitbit.. haha..

You’re nearly there when you started to see the signages below.

It took us an hour before we reached the village. We then registered our names in their tourist office. They require no registration fee, but an ample donation will surely be appreciated.

Personally, I wanted to stay at Mang Ramon’s Homestay. To experience firsthand practice and better understanding how Igorots live in the village. They charge 250 per person, per night, for a nipa hut, and 200 for a normal room accommodation.

But upon reaching the village and realizing how far Mang Ramon Homestay was from where we were standing, we decided to settle in the next best thing right in front of us – The Hillside Inn.

The Hillside Inn, I think has strategically the best location in town. It’s located right next to the registration and tourist office. When you’re dead tired from the trek, and all you want to do is to relax your begging feet, isang kembot mo na lang, nasa Hillside Inn ka na. Haha.

It’s an off peak season, so we needed not to reserve for a room beforehand. Besides, if Hillside be fully booked, there are a lot of choices in the village, with standard rate of 200 per night. Dirt cheap huh. The cheapest accommodation I know, so far. It’s very basic. Room with no aircon nor an electric fan (who needs one when you’re in one of the coldest places in the country). No toiletries (bring your own.) No hot/cold shower (it’s one of the challenging part of the trip.) 

But at least you have this:

a priceless scenery you will never ever forget

While waiting for our lunch, we savor every second of our time for our much-needed rest. And this is what rest meant for our guys.

Batad village is situated in a tiny town in the midst of the mountains of Northern Luzon. A little harder to get to, considering the hours we took to reach the village. Having said this, expect everything here is not ordinary especially the prices of their goods.

Instead of ordering ala-carte meals, we decided to order one whole chicken, 570 and had it cook for our lunch. (at ang tira, pwedeng pang dinner pa!) And just because their surrounded with rice fields doesn’t mean makakatipid kayo sa rice dito. Haha. One cup of rice will cost you 25 pesos.

There’s nothing fancy about their food. But eating with your beloved friends next to one of the world’s wonderful creation, I think it can be compared to dining in a five-star hotel.

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If you consider yourself more of a tourist, then there’s nothing much to see in Batad. But if you’re a natural born traveler, and it’s your deepest desire to experience life beyond theme parks, then, Batad has something magnificent to offer. I have read blogs from most of Western backpackers that their trip to the Philippines won’t complete without visiting Batad. So don’t be surprised if you see them living like locals in the village. I then remember our driver, Kuya Rhenson who preferred to speak to us in English, I think he's more used to it - talking more often to foreign travellers, than Pinoy visitors.